A View from Infinity Heights: Seeing the Brahmaputra Through Guwahati’s Eyes

There are rivers and then there is the Brahmaputra. In Guwahati, it is not just a body of water that splits the city in two. It is the soul of the city, its heartbeat, the wettest narrative of time and tide. To stand on its banks is to feel the very breath of the Himalayas upon your face, to listen to the echoes of old folklore. You can stare in awe and horror at a force that is so massive that it makes you believe in its might. The Brahmaputra is a force of nature that contours the earth, the humans, and the skyline of Assam’s throbbing heart.

The Mythic Son of Brahma

The Brahmaputra did not flow out of the ground to first appear as a line on a map. It flowed out from a story. Wrapped in mythology is the birth of the river. Legend has it that once a sage named Shantanu had a beautiful wife by the name of Amogha. It was the heart of the creator god Brahma that stirred at her beauty and she conceived a son within the body of water known as the ‘Brahmakunda.’ And so, this ‘son of Brahma’ was destined to flow down the Earth for the welfare of mankind, and thus came to be known as Brahmaputra (son of Brahma). In old scriptures, the river is also known by the name Lauhitya (the red river), a name by which the Ganga is also sometimes referred. The river is said to have gotten its name from the blood of Parashurama’s axe. He is said to have washed his axe in this river, and since then, the soil on the river’s bed is said to have had a tinge of red to it. The Brahmaputra is the only major river in India with a masculine name.

A Titan’s Geographic March

The Brahmaputra’s odyssey is a geographic drama. Flowing down as the Tsangpo from the Tibetan plateau, the river descends to Assam from the Himalayas in a sweeping, cinematic arc. As it enters Assam, its temperament changes. It widens, mellows, and fans out across the valley in a benign, sleepy sprawl.

In Guwahati, the Brahmaputra reaches its widest, most unbridled state. It can stretch to more than 10 kilometres in width during the monsoon, creating a liquid horizon that seems to go on forever. The river’s current here is not one stream but a braided network of several waterways that shift and snake around the transitory sandbanks (locally known as saporis) in its flow. Smaller bodies of land that sit in the Brahmaputra’s expansive embrace include Umananda, a small but holy island located directly across the city’s centre. ‘Peacock Island’, as it is also called, hosts a Shiva temple. A speck of green on the river, Umananda is only accessible by ferry.

The Artery of Commerce

For centuries, the Brahmaputra has been the region’s principal highway. The Ahom kings used it as a strategic channel for their navy and the British later used it to trade in tea. The Brahmaputra continues to be an important artery for trade and communications and has been declared National Waterway 2. The river is now constantly patrolled by ferries, barges loaded with cargo and passenger boats, ferrying goods and people to the remotest corners of the state. For many communities living along its banks, it is an important source of livelihood.

The Tourist’s Muse and the Cruiser’s Dream

Our favourite way to spend a day along the Brahmaputra in Guwahati is with activities that make up the daily rhythms of life on the river. These traditional excursions are excellent for getting your first taste of the Brahmaputra’s grandeur from the very centre of Guwahati city. Spend a whole afternoon exploring spiritual sites and serene landscapes without even leaving the city limits. All these activities are accessible and serve as foundational elements of any river visit.

• Walk to Umananda Temple: The well-known “Peacock Island” is reached by a short and crowded ferry ride from Kachari Ghat. The little island in the middle of the river features a serene Shiva temple. It is a short pilgrimage and provides a beautiful view back to the riverfront of the city.

• Experience Sunset by the Brahmaputra: It is hard to top the beauty of watching the sun go down over the great expanse of the Brahmaputra. It is an incredibly moving experience to see the long golden light fade away and the river’s expanse turn shades of orange and pink. Anywhere on the riverbank or on a ferry is a good spot to see the sunset.
• Take a Walk Along the River: Walking along the promenades and parks that run alongside the Brahmaputra is a great way to while away an afternoon or a peaceful evening. Feel the cool breeze on your skin and the passing of boats and you will find your eyes twinkling with the city lights.

For a more relaxing or an adventurous experience on the Brahmaputra, Guwahati has several options that will treat you to a great blend of food, music, entertainment, and exploration. The comfort and style that you can experience while on or near the Brahmaputra can turn a simple visit into a truly memorable evening. Whether you are looking for a romantic dinner or an exciting exploration, you will find a modern way to enjoy one of the world’s great waterways.

• Enjoy a Cruise on the Brahmaputra: You simply must go on a cruise on the Brahmaputra. Options include short sunset cruises or more luxurious dinner cruises that feature live music, cultural performances, and mouthwatering Assamese food under the stars.

• Eat at a Riverside Restaurant: Restaurants and cafes with alfresco seating are situated all along the banks of the Brahmaputra. They provide some of the best dining venues with uninterrupted river views. Relax with a leisurely lunch or enjoy a romantic dinner.

• Go on a Long-Haul Journey: For those who are more adventurous and want to explore more, a multi-day luxury cruise up the Brahmaputra may be a good option. Cruises make their way upstream from Guwahati, and they take their visitors to places such as Kaziranga National Park and Majuli Island.

The Celestial View from Infinity Heights

There is only so much of the Brahmaputra you can experience from the riverbank. Or from a boat. Or in a bath. But to truly understand the enormity of the mighty river, its omnipresence, its godliness, you must view it from on high. Perched at the summit of the urban Guwahati atop Kalapahar hill is Infinity Heights (www.infinityheights.in), the tallest premium residential project in the city. Stand at the balcony of one of the villas at Infinity Heights and you get a god’s-eye view of the Brahmaputra River.

High above the city, it is as if the river parts its earthly veneer to take on a celestial form. A huge shimmering silver serpent winding its way through this green valley. The imposing Saraighat Bridge, an artery of connectivity to the far corners of the state, looks like a mere thread. And the string of lights on the bridge at night are just pearls thrown upon the water. Umananda Island is but a miniscule emerald gem. You can see the monsoon swells swell this neck of the Brahmaputra into an inland ocean. You can watch the monsoon retreat and the river contract to a trickle over its winter and see the bare belly of the island. A stretch of sand nearly the size of this entire city. And you can watch dawn come in hues of liquid gold. You can watch it set in the deepest shades of indigo. For it is a living, changing canvas.

The Brahmaputra river of course, remains the ageless silent spectator of this modern city that you see now. It has stood the test of time. Has witnessed the city grow and all the empires that came and went along the way. It is a river of myth, legend, and myth-making; a river of trade and commerce; a river that gives life and takes it; a river that turns into a colossus in monsoon; a river that is a spectacular view like no other. Touch it, cruise it, and look up at it from the heavens. The Son of Brahma is a sight that you will never forget.